The Best Laid Plans

Perhaps the question I have been asked more times than any other since my return from the Holy Land runs along the lines of whether or not I felt safe while I was there with all the constant turmoil in the Middle East.  The answer is a resounding “yes” – a thousand times over.  Because tourism is one of the main industries in Israel, tour guides only make a living if there are tourists.  As a result, they have developed a close network with military and local law enforcement to ensure the safety of their nation’s guests.  As naturally as some of us check the weather daily to determine our wardrobes during the changing seasons, these tour guides are constantly monitoring the potential hotspots and making adjustments as necessary to the itineraries in order to avoid riotous outbreaks.  This particular day was one such exercise in flexibility for us.

Our plans included leaving Golgotha and the Garden Tomb to make our way to the Mount of Olives and Gethsemane.  As I mentioned in a previous post, we arrived in Israel during the time the Israelis were celebrating their Memorial Day and Day of Independence.  However, not everyone in Israel celebrates this relatively newly found independence.  Every year, depending on how it falls with the Arabic calendar, Nakba usually falls during this same week.  Nakba is also known as the “Day of Rage” or the “Day of Catastrophe” for Muslims.  For the Palestinians, it is an annual day of commemoration of the displacement that followed the Israeli Declaration of Independence in 1948.  As a result of Nakba demonstrations on the Mount of Olives, riots broke out where we were planning to visit, so our itinerary was quickly changed.  (As an aside, this is why we saw signs everywhere we went calling us to “pray for the peace of Jerusalem.”)  Since we could not actually visit the Mount of Olives, our tour guide wanted to make sure we at least saw it, so she took us to a place called Mount Scopus.

View of the Mount of Olives from the steps of the 2nd Temple

View of Mt of Olives and Gethsemane from Mount Scopus

Mount Scopus means to “look over”.  It is a mountain overlooking the south side of Jerusalem and is connected to the Mount of Olives on the northern end.  Mount Scopus has been a strategic location throughout history.  This is the area where the Roman legions under Titus camped in 70 AD, the Crusaders in 1099, the British in 1917, and the Arabs in 1948 and 1967.  Mount Scopus is also home to Hebrew University in Jerusalem.  We drove up to the top, parked at a lookout point, and piled out of the lavender limo so we could take pictures of the Mount of Olives and Jerusalem.

Hebrew University (Mount Scopus Campus), Jerusalem

View of Jerusalem from Mount Scopus

We were then informed that there had been another major change to our travel itinerary.  We were heading to Bethlehem!  Although it is only 6 miles from Jerusalem, Bethlehem has been a Palestinian-held city since 1995, and as such, we were told we would not be able to go there on this trip.  Because of the riots, special arrangements were made for us to enter Bethlehem (Palestine)—where, ironically, we were safer than on the Mount of Olives.  Throughout our time in Israel up until this point, we had been on the same bus with the same tour guide.  In order to make it across the Palestinian border, we had to leave our Hebrew bus behind and board an Arabic one, where we also had to leave behind our Jewish tour guide since it is illegal for Jews to enter Palestine.

Crossing the Palestinian border - Courtesy of Shawn & Lisa Chenault

As soon as we made it through the checkpoint, it was clear we were “not in Kansas anymore.”  The Arabs do not take nearly the same amount of pride in maintaining the beauty of their streets or buildings as do the Israelis.  Bethlehem was dirty and rundown.  The streets we travelled seemed mostly abandoned.

Bethlehem street sign

The streets of Bethlehem - Courtesy of Joe & Winora Serio

Bethlehem welcome sign - Courtesy of Nancy Watts

The Bank of Palestine

Palestinian police standing post nearby

We made our way down Manger Street to the Nissan brothers’ restaurant and stopped for a lunch of falafel and pitas before heading to our next destination point.  This restaurant is a large, lavish, mostly empty banquet hall with a buffet line of Middle-Eastern fare.

Manger Street, Bethlehem street sign

Nissan Brothers' Restaurant

Nissan Brothers' restaurant

Maggi mural in the Nissan Brothers' Restaurant - Courtesy of Green Tree Photography

Star chandelier inside the Nissan Brothers' Restaurant - Courtesy of Green Tree Photography

Nissan Brothers' restaurant dining room

Arabic Coca-Cola can

After lunch, we stopped nearby at the Nissan brother’s olive wood factory where we were able to see firsthand behind the veil where the woodworkers work by hand to make many of the souvenirs we had seen throughout the country.

Olive wood in the Nissan Brothers' factory workshop

Hand-carved olive wood figurines in the Nissan Brothers' factory - Courtesy of Green Tree Photography

John the Baptist Souvenir Shop selling olive wood figurines near the Nissan Brothers' factory

I'm not really sure why I thought this was funny...

Up the stairs from the workshop is a storefront that houses finished works of beautiful olive wood figurines, nativity sets, mother of pearl jewelry, and blue pottery.  One of my proudest purchases (and most favorite Christmas decorations) came from this store—an original faceless olive wood nativity set from Bethlehem.

Olive wood nativities inside the Nissan Brothers' factory - Courtesy of Green Tree Photography

Significance:

• Ruth & Boaz met and were married in Bethlehem (Ruth 1-4)
• Bethlehem is known to this day as “The City of David” after Ruth’s great grandson, King David  (Ruth 4:22; 1 Samuel 17:12; Luke 2:4, 11)
• Great things were prophesied of Bethlehem in Micah 5:2:  “But you, Bethlehem Ephrathah, though you are small among the clans of Judah, out of you will come for me one who will be ruler over Israel, whose origins are from of old, from ancient times.”

Reflection:

In my humble opinion, Bethlehem is home to the two greatest love stories of all time.  Ruth’s is also a story of best laid plans going awry.  Ruth, a Moabite widow, pledges her devotion to her mother-in-law Naomi and commits to follow her (and her God) wherever she may go after the death of her husband.  As a result, she ends up in Bethlehem with her sleeves rolled up, gleaning grain during the harvest in the wheat fields of Boaz—Bethlehem’s most eligible bachelor, and as Providence would have it, Ruth’s kinsman-redeemer.  Ruth’s love and faithfulness to Naomi are so endearing that her reputation precedes her and Boaz can’t help but notice how special she is.  As their story unfolds, the romance and the sovereignty of God drip from the pages of scripture.  Boaz serves as an incredible picture of God’s redemptive work in our lives.  The book of Ruth begins with three funerals and ends with a wedding and the birth of a baby, providing hope that somewhere in the ashes are embers that will give way to second chances.

It is through the lineage of Boaz and Ruth that God writes an even more powerful love story that starts in the heart of Bethlehem.  Ruth gives birth to Obed, the father of Jesse, the father of King David—through whom eventually is born Jesus, the Messiah, in Bethlehem (the city of David).  God’s own son—fully man and fully God—was born in Bethlehem to walk this earth and to seek and to save that which is lost; to serve as the redemption for our sins.  He gave his life as a ransom for many so that our lives could be redeemed and he wrote with his very blood the greatest love story ever told: “Greater love has no man than this, that he lay down his life for his friends” (John 15:13).

The Place of the Skull

From the House of Caiaphas we made our way to what is now known as Gordon’s Calvary.  Here we were greeted by a British tour guide who led us to a shaded spot in a beautiful garden that lent itself to a full view of a nearby hillside resembling a human skull.  You and I know it by the name Golgotha, which according to Matthew 27:33 means The Place of the Skull.

To Golgotha

As I have mentioned in several previous postings, many of the places we visited in Israel have been disputed  as to the authenticity of the actual location of certain biblical events and are known to many as the traditional sites of a particular place or event since it is difficult to prove with 100% certainty.  This tour stop is one of those disputed traditional sites.  While the Bible locates the crucifixion at the Place of the Skull, it does not state that it took place on a hill, or that this place bore the resemblance of a skull.  Some scholars say it was called the Place of the Skull simply because it was the place in Jerusalem where Adam’s bones (including his skull) were laid to rest.  Others believe it was called the Place of the Skull because it was a site for many crucifixions.  There is also some uncertainty as to whether or not the hill resembled a skull 2000 years ago the way it does today, as it is believed the hill has been altered by quarrying over the past several centuries.

Golgotha - The Place of the Skull

A photo of a full-frontal view of "The Place of the Skull" - Courtesy of Joe & Winora Serio

Whether the cross of Jesus Christ was located atop a hillside or down in the city streets, this much is for certain: that Roman crucifixion was gruesome and it was done publicly alongside major thoroughfares where high traffic was common.  It was meant to serve as a deterrent to all who witnessed the horror—to all who heard the screams, smelled the smells, and beheld the blood and the struggles.  Whether this particular spot known as Golgotha today is the true Calvary or not, it is an impressive and breath-taking site to see, not because of its aesthetic beauty, but because of its potential significance in the crucifixion of Jesus.

Today, the top of the hill is occupied by a Muslim cemetery and presently overlooks an Arabic bus station.

Arabic bus station at the foot of Golgotha

It is called Gordon’s Calvary because British General Gordon discovered Skull Hill in 1883.  Its nearness to a tomb only about 330 feet away located outside the Old City Walls of Jerusalem led him to believe this was the Golgotha mentioned in the Gospels and that the tomb was that in which Jesus was buried.  Many took his claims seriously and at the request of an 1892 ad in the London Times soliciting donations to purchase the site, the Garden Tomb Association was formally established in 1893 and the property was purchased by the British in a few short years.  The Garden Tomb Association of England still oversees the operations of the Garden today, hence our nice British tour guide.

We left our shaded view of the alleged Calvary and made our way just a few short feet to the tomb where many believe Jesus may have been buried.

Street sign indicating the way to the Garden Tomb

A walk in the Garden

Bridge in the garden leading to the tomb from Golgotha

"Pray for the Peace of Jerusalem" signs were everywhere we went. This one is in the garden near the tomb

This site is also highly disputed.  Another traditional location for this site is believed to be where the Church of the Holy Sepulcher now stands.  Despite the arguments for a different location, this site is a great visual of what Jesus’ tomb would have been like.  It is hewn out of stone and is open for tourists to walk in and see what it looks like inside.

The EMPTY Garden Tomb

Burial space inside the tomb

The Garden Tomb Association has added a door that serves as an incredible reminder upon exiting the tomb.

Plaque on the open door upon exiting the EMPTY tomb - Courtesy of Joe & Winora Serio

Nearby, a large cistern used for irrigating a large garden and a winepress dating to the Second Temple Period serve as evidence that has led excavators to believe this garden was a rich man’s vineyard during the time of Jesus.

Winepress near the tomb

In a little spot just to the right of the entrance to the tomb, our group gathered around and shared a very special series of moments together reflecting on the death, burial, and resurrection of Jesus, and praying, singing the old hymn “He Lives”, and taking communion.

Olive wood communion cups near the Garden Tomb

Significance:

• Jesus was crucified at Golgotha in Matthew 27:33, Mark 15:22, Luke 23:33, and John 19:17
• Jesus was laid in a new tomb in the garden near Golgotha in John 19:41

Reflection:

The details of the actual location of Jesus’ tomb mattered little to me.  The more I reflect on it, the more I love the fact that there is no definitive evidence as to the specific location where Jesus’ body may have actually been buried.  This is the whole crux of what sets Christianity apart from other religions: the burial places of the founders of almost all of the major world religions are known with certainty.  Pilgrims of almost every major world religion can travel to a specific location to see the shrines and monuments marking the graves and burial sites of their revered teachers.  In Christianity, however, the burial site of Jesus is disputed to be one of two possible places.  The reason for this is because there are no remains of the body that can be dug up or preserved.  Why?  Because Jesus Christ—the Way, the Truth, and the Life—did not stay dead.  Instead, He conquered death, Hell, and the grave.  The grave could not contain Him.  This is the very reason for the hope that we have as believers in the resurrected Christ!  We can’t prove where Jesus was buried because He didn’t stay buried.  For many, this is an offense to their senses.  For us, it is the bedrock of our faith.  God is constantly confounding the wise.  In Romans 8:31, Paul asks, “If God is for us, who can be against us?”  I’m so glad this God—the creator of the universe, the conqueror of death, and vanquisher of every foe—is for me.  Praise God that with Him, ALL things are possible.

The Pit of Despair

Such has been the order of my life lately that I have taken an involuntary hiatus from the blogging realm for a few months, but with the Easter season fast approaching, this post seems timely and appropriate. 

Our final day in Israel (I thought I would never get to it!) began with a tour of the Palace of the High Priest Caiaphas.  While the House of Caiaphas is located outside of the Old City of Jerusalem today, during the time of Jesus’ life and ministry, it was actually located just southwest of the Temple complex inside the city walls.  It is believed that in the basement of this house is an area where Jesus was held during the night prior to his appearance before Pilate.   And because I love her words more than mine, I am including Rebekah Montgomery’s (crosswalk.com) description of this place here:

Little remains of Caiaphas’ palace, but the dungeons beneath it are terrible in their completeness and the grisly story they tell. Roughly hewn out of bedrock and separated by arches and pillars, there are holes chiseled through the arched tops so the prisoners’ hands could be manacled above their heads while being beaten. –Montgomery, 2005

Underground Caves - House of Caiaphas

Dungeons in the house of Caiaphas - courtesy of GreenTree Photography

Inside the house of Caiaphas, Jesus stood on trial before the Sanhedrin and the chief priests who “were looking for false evidence against Jesus so that they could put him to death” (Matthew 26:59).  It was here they spewed jealous rage on Jesus, spitting in his face, striking their fists at him, slapping him, and condemning him to death because he confessed to be the son of the living God.  They found no evidence against Jesus that warranted his execution, “though many false witnesses came forward” (26:60).

Because what remains of Caiaphas’ palace consists predominantly of the sub terrain dungeons, a church was built in 1931 over the site where the palace originally stood.  Just outside the church is the courtyard area where Peter most probably warmed himself by the fire and was confronted as being one of Jesus’ followers.  This site is also called Saint Peter’s In Gallicantu, or the place of the cock crow, because it is the site where Peter denied Jesus three times before the rooster crowed.

Saint Peter’s In Gallicantu Church

Rooster Weather Vane Atop the Saint Peter’s In Gallicantu Church

Saint Peter’s In Gallicantu Church

View of Jerusalem from the Garden

Statue of a Rooster on his Perch in the Courtyard

Significance:

• Jesus’ first trial leading up to His crucifixion took place here (Matthew 26:57-63)
• In the courtyard here, Peter denied the Lord three times (John 18:15-18; 25-27)

Jesus' arrested before Caiaphas

Statue depicting Peter's denial of Jesus

The palace church and its courtyard are situated high on a hill overlooking the city of Jerusalem and the Valley of Gehenna.  This valley is wrought with large stones and looks more like a large ravine to the unsuspecting eye; however, interestingly, in Old Testament times, Gehenna was a place where apostate Israelites and followers of various Baals and Canaanite gods went to sacrifice their infant children by fire.  By the time of Jesus, it was nothing more than a garbage dump.  And during the First Century in Jerusalem, 30 pieces of silver—though not much—was enough to purchase a “slave or a slimy low spot in Gehenna where pottery clay could be dug and the corpses of paupers buried” (Montgomery).  Because of the horrific things that happened here, the Hebrew word for Gehenna most closely translates to the English word for Hell.  The Koran refers to Gehenna as a place of torment for sinners, or the Islamic equivalent of Hell.

The Valley of Gehenna

The Hellish Gehenna and the grisly dungeons of the house of Caiaphas are much more daunting than the Princess Bride’s “pit of despair”; but I couldn’t resist another rave reference.

Reflection:

The older I am, the more the pages of scripture amaze and confound me.  Standing on the ledge of the courtyard just outside the church marking the spot where Caiaphas’ palace once stood, overlooking the Valley of Gehenna and the city of Jerusalem, I couldn’t help but think about the price Jesus Christ paid to redeem our souls.  In Gehenna there existed so much sinful idol worship and detestable slaughter.  Inside the house of Caiaphas during the trial of Jesus there existed so much hatred.  In the garden nearby there existed so much dishonesty, disappointment, and failure.  In these three places culminated so much despair.  But as dismal as the picture seems, the hope in it all is that these are the very reasons Jesus came.  He came to “seek and to save that which was lost” (Luke 19:10).    The hard truth of it is that you and I deserve death.  The beautiful truth of it is that Jesus Christ, the one and only son of the Living God, left the glorious presence of God and became flesh and willingly chose to lay down his perfect life as a ransom for yours and mine, and perhaps more mind-boggling to me than anything, the lives of those who spat upon him and beat Him and unjustly sentenced him to the worst imaginable death.  Yes, even for these he came.  And praise God he did!  For he who has been forgiven much loves much (Luke 7:47).  It’s time we awaken to the reality of the depth of the forgiveness we have been extended and in turn love others deeply.  By this will all men know that we are followers [disciples] of Jesus if we truly love one another (John 13:35).

Jesus the Servant of the Lord plaque

Shabbat Shalom

After leaving the Valley of Elah and driving past the protestors for Gilad Shalit outside of the Prime Minister’s home, we cut our tour day short in order to make it back to our hotel a little earlier this particular afternoon since sundown marked the beginning of Shabbat, or the Sabbath.  Shabbat is the seventh day of the Jewish week and a day of rest in Judaism.  It literally means “rest” or “cessation” and comes from the Torah in the books of Genesis and Exodus:

Thus the heavens and the earth were completed in all their vast array. By the seventh day God had finished the work he had been doing; so on the seventh day he rested from all his work.  And God blessed the seventh day and made it holy, because on it he rested from all the work of creating that he had done. – Genesis 2:1-3

He said to them, “This is what the LORD commanded: ‘Tomorrow is to be a day of Sabbath rest, a holy Sabbath to the LORD. So bake what you want to bake and boil what you want to boil. Save whatever is left and keep it until morning.’” – Exodus 16:23

“Say to the Israelites, ‘You must observe my Sabbaths. This will be a sign between me and you for the generations to come, so you may know that I am the LORD, who makes you holy.’” –Exodus 31:13

The exact times for the duration of Shabbat differ from week to week, since it is observed from a few minutes before sunset on Friday evening until a few minutes after sundown on Saturday. Since it is expected that Jews do not do any work on this holy day, there is a specified amount of time before Shabbat “rolls in” when the stores close and the streets clear, giving the Jews time to get home without breaking any of the laws of Shabbat. This includes driving, turning a light switch on or off, or watching or using any electronic devices.

On the ride back to our hotel, our tour guide Tali taught us a phrase and song most Jewish people greet one another with on this special day—Shabbat Shalom.

In the hotel where we stayed, we observed several interesting Shabbat rituals.  One was that many Jews checked into the hotel where we stayed since it is located within walking distance to the temple (as driving on Shabbat is prohibited).  Also, two of the four elevators in the main lobby were deemed “Shabbat elevators,” meaning simply that on this particular day, these elevators are programmed to automatically stop and open on every floor of the hotel since Jews are not allowed to push buttons to operate the elevators on the Sabbath.  Another point of interest was that for our evening meal, the hotel’s wait staff, which had been predominantly Jewish throughout the week, was now entirely comprised of Muslims who served the food.

We sat down to a true five course Shabbat meal on white linen table cloths.  It is customary to serve meat or fish for the Shabbat evening and morning meals—our evening menu included both.  For starters, we had Mediterranean Style Fillet of Salmon (Salmon with Dill), followed by a choice of soup.

Salmon with Dill

Soup - Chicken Consumme' with Noodles and Julienne Vegetables - Courtesy of Sandy Segal

Dinner was also served with a dinner roll known as braided challah (pronounced like you’re trying to clear your throat), which is symbolic of the double portion of manna God provided from heaven for the Israelites during their 40-year journey through the desert after their Exodus from Egypt.

Braided Challah

The main course was a choice of meat, followed by dessert and coffee or hot tea.

Main entrée (chicken dish whose name I can no longer recall) - Courtesy of Sandy Segal

Shabbat dessert complete with ice cream - Courtesy of Sandy Segal

It was such a unique experience to see how the Jews of modern-day Israel observe the Sabbath.  Jewish people are to honor Shabbat through preparation by bathing, having a haircut, and cleaning their homes. On Shabbat, they are to wear festive clothing and refrain from unpleasant conversation by avoiding topics like money or business.  They are also expected to enjoy Shabbat by engaging in pleasurable activities such as eating, singing, spending time with family, and marital relations.

A Ransom for Many

Our next tour stop was not planned on the travel itinerary.  In fact, I wasn’t even considering including it here until recent headline news pushed this story back into the forefront of my mind.  On our way from the Valley of Elah back to our hotel in Jerusalem, we passed in front of the Prime Minister’s home.

Prime Minister's Home-Courtesy of Nancy Watts

There we saw a large tent set up on the side-walk in front of the house with a small crowd of protestors gathered around, tuned into a television just inside.  Many yellow ribbons hung from a tree just outside.  Near the tent were several paintings of a young Israeli soldier named Gilad Shalit who had been abducted by Hamas militants near the border of Gaza in June of 2006.  Above the entry way was a banner that served as a ticker counting the number of days since Gilad had been captured.  The protestors (Gilad’s family and a few friends) set up camp in front of the Prime Minister’s house shortly after he was kidnapped, and remained there for  us to see (for over 5 years).  Tourists and locals alike visited the tent and could purchase t-shirts advocating Gilad’s release.  Passersby were also offered to take a yellow ribbon to remember to pray for this POW and his family.

Gilad's family protesting for negotiations for his release outside the Prime Minister's home

The number of days Gilad's family had been camped outside the Prime Minister's house

Yellow ribbons to remember Gilad - Courtesy of Nancy Watts

This experience in and of itself, while significant, did not seem to prove itself noteworthy enough for me to post on this travel blog that chronicles our visits to the holy sites of Israel.  However, since it has taken me so long to unpack each of the stops on our 7 day tour, enough time has passed to allow me to offer you, as the late Paul Harvey would say, the rest of the story.

On October 18, 2011, Gilad was released in a deal that secured his freedom after more than five years in isolation and captivity in exchange for 1,027 Palestinian convicted prisoners, including some convicted of multiple murders and carrying out terror attacks against Israeli civilians.  A Hamas leader confirmed that the prisoners released as part of the deal were collectively responsible for 569 deaths of Israeli civilians.

A cement block painting of Gilad - Courtesy of Sandy Segal

I don’t know about you, but the last two statements stirred within me a violent mix of emotions.  I cannot imagine what this release meant to Gilad and to his family after having been in captivity for over 5 years.  On the other hand, I could not understand how one man’s life was worth the freedom of a thousand evil men (and women).

And then it occurred to me: this is the clearest picture I have seen yet of what Jesus Christ did for you and for me.  Mark 10:45 says: “For even the Son of Man did not come to be served, but to serve, and to give his  life as a ransom for many.”  Jesus–the perfect and blameless Son of God–bore my sins and yours on a cruel Roman cross to serve as the atonement for our unrighteousness so that we may have a right standing before the most holy God.  This one man’s life was meant to be the ransom for many–an act of mercy none of us deserves because of our own depravity.  The wages of our sin is death, but through Jesus we have mercifully been given liberty.  And praise God for that.  Isn’t it great to know that the story of Gilad doesn’t end with a young man’s family protesting their son’s release from captivity in futility?  It ends with release for the captives.  Isn’t it great to know that our story ends the same way?!

Defying the Odds

Following lunch and the vow renewal ceremony at the Kibbutz Ramat Rachel, we made our way 45 minutes southwest of Jerusalem to the Valley of Elah, or “the valley of the oak or terebinth.” Elah is a flat, triangular valley situated on the western rim of the rolling Judean low hills. Historically, it was a significant corridor connecting the Coastal Plain to the Judean cities of Bethlehem, Jerusalem, and Hebron through the Shephelah Valley.  Elah is so called because oak, terebinth, and acacia trees covered the hills above the valley in the Shephelah region.

Olive (and other) trees in the Elah Valley - Courtesy of Joe & Winora Serio

 Significance:

•  David slays Goliath (1 Samuel 17)

Reflection:

In order to understand the significance of this area, it is imperative to note that while Joshua had much success in his military campaigns, the Israelites were not able to expel all of the Canaanites (including the Philistines) from this region.  This remnant in the Coastal Plain served to perpetually aggravate the Israelites through frequent raids of Judah and the surrounding tribes.

View of a hill from the Elah Valley - Courtesy of Joe & Winora Serio

Today, the Valley of Elah is one of Israel’s best kept tourist secrets.  It is not nearly as widely visited as most of the other sites we toured during our time in the Holy Land.  In fact, when we arrived, we had the rare privilege of being the only group of people there, save a handful of motorized dirt bikers zipping up and down the steep hills on the edge of the Valley.  As we pulled over on the side of the highway, we came to a dry riverbed known to you and to me as the place where an unsuspecting shepherd boy was victorious over the Philistine army’s biggest (pun intended) champion and hero with a smooth stone and a sling shot.  Here in the Elah Valley, David slew Goliath (1 Samuel 17).

The Lavender Limos chillin' on the side of the highway - Courtesy of Joe & Winora Serio

Motor-biker in the Elah Valley - Courtesy of Joe & Winora Serio

The Elah Valley

The people of Israel camped on one hill and the Philistines opposite them on another.  The Bible says that day after day for 40 days Goliath came forward to mock the people of Israel.  He was a giant man and a tremendous warrior.  He struck fear deep into the hearts of the Israelite men.  Along comes David—an unsuspecting shepherd boy—running an errand for his father.  Just as he approaches the battle lines to deliver items to his brothers, he hears the threats of Goliath and the rumblings of the Israelites.  And then he inquires with this uncanny question: “Who is this uncircumcised Philistine that he should defy the armies of the living God?” (1 Samuel 17:26).  David goes confidently before King Saul, saying, “Let no one lose heart on account of this Philistine; your servant will go and fight him” (v. 32).

The hill where one of the armies camped in the Elah Valley

Imagine Goliath’s dichotomy of disappointment and pleasure: for 40 days, he has bellowed to the army of Israel to “give him a man” to fight; instead, they send him a boy.  Where were the fighting men of Israel who had been trained to go into battle?  Yet, here stands David—no armor; no shield; no sword or bow—armed only with five smooth stones and a sling shot.  And the power of the Almighty God.

⁴⁵ David said to the Philistine, “You come against me with sword and spear and javelin, but I come against you in the name of the LORD Almighty, the God of the armies of Israel, whom you have defied. ⁴⁶ This day the LORD will deliver you into my hands, and I’ll strike you down and cut off your head. This very day I will give the carcasses of the Philistine army to the birds and the wild animals, and the whole world will know that there is a God in Israel. ⁴⁷ All those gathered here will know that it is not by sword or spear that the LORD saves; for the battle is the LORD’s, and he will give all of you into our hands.”

Five smooth stones in the Valley of Elah - Courtesy of Shawn & Lisa Chenault

David had more than just a heart of a warrior.  He had a heart after God.  All of the other men of Israel saw the giant before them and realized how insignificant and inadequate they were to face their foe.  But unlike these men, David wasn’t living in the power of his own might.  This is what Paul meant when he said in Ephesians 6:10: “Finally my brothers, be strong in the Lord and in his mighty power.”  David understood that when God is for us, no man—no thing—can stand against us.  He also understood that the glory from these victories is not ours to take.  How many times have you or I stood at the foot of a seemingly insurmountable problem, fully aware of our inability to climb it, failing to realize the size and the power of the God we serve, only for Him to bring us through it while we claim the glory as our own?

God uses the foolish things to confound the wise so that the world will know that He is on His throne.  David defied the odds.  He did what they said couldn’t be done because he relied on the power of the Almighty God and was sure to give credit to His name.  The good—no, the great—news for us is that we have the ability to live in this same power.  As Joshua said, “Choose for yourselves this day whom you will serve […].  As for me and my house, we will serve the Lord” (Joshua 24:15).  May your life and mine be marked as ones that defy the odds in the name of the Lord.

Cheesin' it up for the camera in the Elah Valley

An Awesome Little Candid - Courtesy of Nancy Watts

A Covenant Love

Leaving the Israel Museum complex, we passed a kosher McDonald’s, which for some reason, I found to be highly amusing–enough for me to include a picture of it here.

Kosher McDonald's

Throughout our tour, we visited several kibbutzes (not really sure what the correct plural form of the word is).  Kibbutz is a Hebrew word that means “communal settlement” and is a rural community that functions as an egalitarian society.  From the museum, we made our way 3 miles south of central Jerusalem to the Kibbutz Ramat Rachel, the only kibbutz hotel in Jerusalem.  There we enjoyed a buffet-style lunch and then we spent some time walking among the magnificent gardens on the grounds.

Lunch at Kibbutz Ramat Rachel, Courtesy of Chase & Jan Renegar http://www.greentreephotography.net/

The Gardens at Ramat Rachel

Rose Bush in the Gardens at Ramat Rachel

The Kibbutz Ramat Rachel sits high on a hill that overlooks Bethlehem, the Judean Desert, Herodion, and its namesake–Rachel’s Tomb.

View of Bethlehem from Ramat Rachel

Statue of Rachel on the Grounds of Ramat Rachel, Courtesy of Shaw & Barbara Gookin

Rachel was Jacob’s favorite wife, the one he worked 14 years to marry.  She died from complications during childbirth and was buried in a spot just below the place where we were visiting.  This particular spot is believed to have been the traditional location of Rachel’s burial since the 4th century.  The biblical account is below:

Then they moved on from Bethel.  While they were still some distance from Ephrath, Rachel began to give birth and had great difficulty.  And as she was having great difficulty in childbirth, the midwife said to her, “Don’t despair, for you have another son.”  As she breathed her last–for she was dying–she named her son Ben-Oni.  But his father named him Benjamin.  So Rachel died and was buried on the way to Ephrath (that is, Bethlehem).  Over her tomb Jacob set up a pillar, and to this day that pillar marks Rachel’s tomb.  – Genesis 35:16-21

Reflection:

After dining at the Kibbutz Ramat Rachel, we walked around the beautiful gardens outside and enjoyed the breathtaking view of Bethlehem from the top of the hill.

Close-Up of a Rose at Ramat Rachel

Roses in the Gardens at Ramat Rachel

More Roses in the Gardens at Ramat Rachel

Some Sweet Friends at Ramat Rachel, Courtesy of Shaw & Barbara Gookin

View of Bethlehem from Ramat Rachel

As we were observing the countryside below, Pastor Mark called us over to a nearby archway, which, he said, was perfect for wedding ceremonies.  So in keeping with that spirit, he called together all of the married couples and the rest of us watched as they renewed their vows to one another.  Witnessing this tender moment was incredibly special.  It was also one of the most emotional experiences for me throughout our entire trip.  The reasons for this are many, but I will try to give you a few.

Renewing Their Vows

Renewing Their Vows

By this point during our trip, I had come to know many of my travel companions quite well, and after spending some quality time with several of them, I was able to learn things about them and their lives that made this moment especially poignant.  Knowing the “story” of each couple and watching them experience this moment together was beyond special.  The spectrum ranged from the couple who had been married 5 years, to the couple celebrating their 20th wedding anniversary, to the couple rejoicing in second–even third–chances to get it right, and everywhere in between; and to know some of the depth of the heartache and the abundance of the joy they’ve walked through together in their marriages was a beautiful privilege.  The stories of those of us on the periphery were just as varied: some married folks came without their spouses; a couple of them had been widowed after nearly 40 years or more of marriage; and there were even still those of us who are in a season of singleness, who are still committed to waiting on the Lord in this arena of our lives.  There was a certain bittersweetness in all of these stories.  All the while, God is at work in tremendous ways in each of these relationships, in each of these circumstances.  What a blessing to witness a renewed commitment to one another before God and before friends.  It served for me as a sobering reminder of the covenants God has made with His people, and that He remains faithful even if we are faithless (2 Timothy 2:13).  Through every circumstance, God is on His throne.  He never changes.  His word stays the same.  Just as with a marriage covenant between husband and wife, there is tremendous value in remembering what the Lord has done in our hearts and renewing the covenant we have made to commit our lives to Him.

Mark and Jan, Courtesy of Shaw & Barbara Gookin

A Tender Moment with Shaw & Barbara, Courtesy of Shaw & Barbara Gookin

Trophies of Grace

As we gathered in the hotel lobby to begin our 6th day of touring, John decided it would be a good morning to prank Winora.  Throughout the week, their Texas-Oklahoma rivalry had grown to new heights and taken on new dimensions.  So as he took off his hat, he exposed a Texas Longhorn yamaka.  Winora, of course, was speechless, but after she recovered, the ribbing continued.  It was a welcome reprieve from the absurd Auburn-Alabama comments I can’t seem to escape since north Alabama has become my new home.

John's Longhorn Yamaka Surprise

After a good, hearty laugh, we loaded the bus and headed to The Israel Museum, Israel’s national museum and one of the world’s leading art and archaeological museums, founded in 1965 and located in Jerusalem.

Entrance to the Israel Museum

The museum itself is multi-faceted, including several different component museums throughout its spacious grounds, and attracting 800,000 visitors a year.  Our tour began with a viewing of a model of the city of Jerusalem during Herod’s reign in 66 AD. This model, constructed by a father in memory of his beloved son killed in the war of 1967, cost nearly $1 million, took seven years to finish, and is constructed on a scale of 1:50 (1/4″ = 1′).  The model provided insightful understanding of where all the things we had seen throughout our stay in Jerusalem were in relation to each other and the city walls.

Model City of Jerusalem (66 AD)

Model Close-Up

From the model city, we entered the Shrine of the Book Museum, a uniquely designed building with a distinctive onion-shaped dome top on the grounds of the Israel Museum that houses the Dead Sea Scrolls and artifacts discovered at Qumran and Masada.  The roof resembles the covers on the clay jars in which the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered at Qumran in 1947.  A long, subtly lit passageway leads inside the museum, which is two-thirds under ground and was designed to mimic the caves where the scrolls were found.  The inside of the museum, below the dome, is shaped like a Torah rod and showcases the Dead Sea Scrolls and other rare manuscripts, including the 10th-century Aleppo Codex (the oldest complete Bible in Hebrew).  The Shrine of the Book is also home to a permanent exhibition on life in Qumran when the scrolls were written.  I only have photos of the outside of the museum, as photography inside the museum was prohibited.

The Shrine of the Book Museum (Courtesy of Shawn & Lisa Chenault)

Shrine of the Book Museum

Kerri and I then broke off from the rest of the group to explore other parts of the museum grounds.  We made our way to the art garden, which is full of modern art sculptures, and overlooks parts of Jerusalem.  Here, we saw some interesting things NOT included in the price of admission!  Those stories, however, are not appropriate for the general public.

In the Israel Museum's Art Garden

In the Israel Museum's Art Garden

In the Israel Museum's Art Garden

Awesome Tree in the Israel Museum's Art Garden

Jerusalem from the Israel Museum's Art Garden

Jerusalem from the Israel Museum's Art Garden

After taking our fill of pictures, and regaining our composure from all the laughter, we entered the Israel Museum’s fine arts exhibit hall, where we experienced a few other moments that caused us to erupt into riotous laughter.  This museum also prohibited pictures from being taken, but it holds a large collection of paintings, sculptures, and artifacts representing a wide range of periods, styles, subjects, and regions of origin. Some of the artists in this impressive international collection include Rembrandt, Pissarro, and Marc Chagall.  It also includes artifacts from Africa, North and South America, Oceania, and the Far East, as well as ancient glass and sculptures.

Exploring the extensive grounds of the Israel Museum provided some humorous moments, for sure.  It was not only entertaining and interesting, but it was also sobering to learn so much about Israel’s rich history from the time of the Second Temple, to the discovery of the Dead Sea Scrolls of Qumran, and to fine and modern art spanning centuries.  The paintings and artifacts on display represented an incredible history behind their glass cases.  Each one, whether sacred or secular, was proudly displayed as a trophy of God’s grace to the people and the nation of Israel that has stood the test of time.  These “trophies of grace” remind me of the words of Peter when he says:

But you are a chosen people, a royal priesthood, a holy nation, God’s special possession, that you may declare the praises of him who called you out of darkness into his wonderful light.  Once you were not a people, but now you are the people of God; once you had not received mercy, but now you have received mercy. – 1 Peter 2:9-10

The beauty in these words is that we–you and I–have also received God’s mercy.  We are His trophies of grace.  Think about what God has done for you.  Rehearse the story again.  Take the time to dwell on God’s faithfulness in your life.  Blow the dust off of a past miracle or moment in your life where you have undoubtedly seen God move, polish off the case, and display it proudly.  As His children, we are set apart.  Proclaim God’s faithfulness in your life just as the Psalmist says: “Come and listen, all you who fear God; let me tell you what he has done for me” – Psalm 66:16.

Toxic Time Machine

Just a few miles away from Qumran, to the South of Masada, is Ein Bokek: our final stop for the day.  Ein Bokek is a village and modern oasis home to the Dead Sea’s tourism hot spot, complete with luxurious hotels and opportunities for visitors to “swim” in the Dead Sea.  In Hebrew, the Dead Sea actually means The Sea of Salt.  It is a beautiful sight–one that stands in stark contrast to the surrounding barren desert landscape.

Beaches of Ein Bokek on the Dead Sea

This way!

The Dead Sea is unique in that it is fed by the Sea of Galilee, the Jordan River, and other rivers in Israel and Jordan, yet, no water flows out of it.  The high desert temperatures evaporate twice the amount of water entering the sea, leaving behind vast concentrations of minerals.  As a result, the water in the Dead Sea is 10 times saltier than that of the Mediterranean Sea.  The salt content is so great that people float effortlessly in the water.  It’s really an odd sensation: walking into the water, I began to sink into the thick clay at the bottom. Just before my feet could sink into the clay, I felt my legs coming up from under me.  Once I positioned myself as if to sit down, I began floating completely.

Kerri holding me down as my feet are coming out from under me

Floating in the Dead Sea with my superstar roomie (courtesy of Kerri Wellendorf)

Many people rub the clay all over their bodies because it is believed to have healing qualities, and some even believe it will make them look younger.  Some of the reasons for this are:

• Salt has purifying qualities and draws toxins from the body’s pores
• The Dead Sea’s tremendous concentration of bromine causes the nervous system to relax
• High concentrations of magnesium counteract skin allergies and clear bronchial passages
• Mud deposits are touted to provide medicinal treatment for ailments, to include: psoriasis, arthritis, rheumatism, dermatitis, and eczema, to name a few

Kerri covered in Dead Sea mud (courtesy of Kerri Wellendorf)

I am not posting many pictures of our experience in an effort to help some people salvage what little dignity they have left.  For the purposes of this post, what happens at the Dead Sea really should stay at the Dead Sea.  However, if you’re really curious, I’d be happy to show you a few pictures that might entertain you for a while. 

I couldn't resist this one! (courtesy of Kerri Wellendorf)

The proverbial “they” say that, “curiosity killed the cat.”  Apparently, a few weeks before our visit, it also killed the tourist who failed to heed his tour guide’s warning not to drink the water.  Consequently, the high magnesium content of the water he ingested resulted in a fatal heart attack.  Turns out, the Dead Sea’s “healing powers” are strictly external.  Floating in the water is a bizarre experience.  Lathering on the mud is supposed to heal your skin and take years off your physical appearance, like some sort of natural time machine.  But drinking the water–that’s altogether toxic.

Dead Sea rules

Significance:

• God poured out his wrath, raining down fire and brimstone on Sodom and Gomorrah; Lot’s wife was turned into a pillar of salt for looking back at the cities (Genesis 19:24-26)

Treasure in Jars of Clay

From the oasis of En Gedi, we traveled a short distance to the ancient ruins of Qumran (pronounced Koom-Ron).

Entering Qumran National Park

Here, in the caves of Qumran in 1947, the Dead Sea Scrolls were accidentally discovered by a Bedouin shepherd boy searching for a lost sheep (some sources say he was looking for a goat–not really key to the story).   Thinking the sheep may have wandered into one of the many caves, the boy began throwing stones into them until he heard pottery break in one.

Explanation of the Discovery of the Scrolls

Caves at Qumran

Upon investigating the cave, he found jars containing seven ancient Old Testament manuscripts on rolls of leather.  This has been considered the most significant archaeological find of the 20th century since the Dead Sea Scrolls are a thousand  years older than any other manuscripts we have and they highlight the scrupulous accuracy of  Jewish scribes.  There were copies of every Old Testament book except for Esther (and yes, I’m okay with that).  Today, many of the scrolls are housed in the Shrine of the Book Museum in Jerusalem.

The ancient ruins and scrolls at Qumran provide insight into the life of the Essenes people, a group of religious secessionists of the first and second centuries who secluded themselves in the desert on the northwestern shore of the Dead Sea to devote themselves to prayer and study of the Word.  It is believed that John the Baptist (“a voice of one calling  in the desert, ‘Prepare the way for the Lord’” -Mark 1:3) preached near here and may have lived in a community similar to this one, although he did not live among the Essenes.

Shores of the Dead Sea from Qumran

Among the ruins at Qumran were remains of public buildings, a ritual bathhouse, a tower, reservoirs, and water systems.

Ruins at Qumran

Ruins at Qumran

Ruins at Qumran

Ruins at Qumran

Ruins at Qumran

Reflection:

After hearing the story of the Bedouin boy, I am reminded of what Paul wrote in 2 Corinthians 4:7:

“But we have this treasure in jars of clay to show that this all-surpassing power  is from God and not from us.”

Granted, the jars of clay Paul was referring to are the earthen vessels of our bodies; however, the treasure discovered in literal jars of clay at Qumran still seems appropriate here.  The discovery of the manuscripts at Qumran is a tremendous victory for Christian apologeticists.  But even more than that is the fact that God has provided us with ways to know His voice and read His words.  He has made provisions to communicate with us, His children.  God didn’t just give us His one and only son as the ransom for our sins (as if that weren’t enough); He also gave us the greatest love story ever written, so that we may know Him:

“We walk by faith, not by sight.” – 2 Corinthians 5:7

“And without faith it is impossible to please God, because anyone who comes to him must believe that he exists and that he rewards those who earnestly seek him.” – Hebrews 11:6

“So then faith comes by hearing, and hearing by the word of God.” – Romans 10:17

“All Scripture is God-breathed and is useful for teaching, rebuking, correcting and training in righteousness.” – 2 Timothy 3:16

“For the word of God is living and active. Sharper than any double-edged sword, it penetrates even to dividing soul and spirit, joints and marrow; it judges the thoughts and attitudes of the heart.” – Hebrews 4:12

“[S]o is my word that goes out from my mouth: It will not return to me empty, but will accomplish what I desire and achieve the purpose for which I sent it.” – Isaiah 55:11

It’s amazing to me that God has given us His holy scripture–the very words of which have been breathed by God–and through which He has determined to establish and grow our faith in Him.  When we realize the value of the treasure we’ve been given, and when we recognize that spending time reading scripture is the key to pleasing God, we should be without excuse for not spending every day pouring over the love letter written for us.  Is it any wonder that David, a man after God’s own heart, wrote these words in Psalm 119?

• How can a young man keep his way pure?  By living according to your word (v. 9).
• I have hidden your word in my heart that I might not sin against you (v. 11).
• Open my eyes that I may see wonderful things in your law (v. 18).
• The law from your mouth is more precious to me than thousands of pieces of silver and gold (v. 72).
• Oh, how I love your law!  I meditate on it all day long (v. 97).
• How sweet are your words to my taste, sweeter than honey to my mouth! (v. 103).
• Your word is a lamp to my feet and a light for my path (v. 105).
• May my lips overflow with praise, for you teach me your decrees (v. 171).